Staying in the historic area of Prague is like living out a fairytale. The architecture is magical, the people are incredibly kind, and the cobble streets are straight up painful. Below is our four-day Prague travel diary.

Day 1: Prague by Walking

We start the day making breakfast and enjoying our light-filled apartment. Then we walk to Old Town Square to participate in a Sanderman’s Free Walking Tour. Sanderman’s has walking tours in several cities and we’ve always had a good experience with them. This particular tour covered areas such as Old Town Square, New Town Square, and the Jewish Quarter. It was great to cover Prague’s history and the general layout of the city on our first full day. Our guide was the perfect mix of corny and knowledgeable and I felt like I retained a lot of information! For instance, did you know Hitler wanted to retire in Prague so he didn’t bomb it (hence the beautiful architecture being preserved)? Or that Prague was raised 8 meters in the 13th century due to flooding from the Vlata river?

After the tour, we cross the Charles Bridge and walk in whatever direction seemed interesting. We eventually eat gelato at the adorable Angelato before venturing into Petrin Hill, a central park with great views of the city. Walking to the top of this park is a workout but it’s fun to people watch and explore the area. There’s also an observation tower atop the hill that you can climb for even greater city views.

Our next stop is the John Lennon Wall where we of course see a man playing Beatles hits. The wall itself was a symbol of resistance to the former communist regime but has since been painted over many times. It’s interesting to see the graffiti and art littering the wall and makes me curious as to how often it changes!

For dinner we eat at Las Adelitas, a Mexican joint with some fair reviews. Though not as mind blowing as Maria Bonita in Berlin, it’s enjoyable and the food is pleasant. Our night ends with people watching in Old Town Square. This square has so much happening at all times and we can comfortably sit for hours without getting bored. We also get our first taste of trdelnik, a sugary pastry found in any Prague touristy area. These things are amazing and are made right in front of you and we ate way too many throughout our trip.

Day 2: Unexpected Rain

Our morning begins with a walk to Old Town Square and a visit to Tyn Church. There’s heavy rain today so we take a gloriously long lunch at a restaurant with views of the square.

Next on the agenda is a tour of the Old Town Hall, the Underground System, and the Astronomical Clock. Old Town Hall consists of multiple medieval buildings and underground cellars. The tour also provides a closer look at the workings of the famed clock tower, which consists of the Old Town Hall Clock and the Astronomical Clock. Legend claims that the clock maker was made blind after the clock’s completion so he wouldn’t be able to build a more beautiful clock elsewhere. That’s one way to prevent artist poaching.

Day 3: Castle Day

Our third day is spent primarily around Prague Castle. If you choose to walk to the castle (as we did) be warned that it is an uphill and tiring walk. At the castle grounds we tour the Old Royal Palace, The Story of Prague (a museum), the Basilica of St. George, Golden Lane, the Powder Tower, St. Vitus’s Cathedral, and Rosenberg Palace. Basically there’s a lot to see if you have the time. We then eat lunch at a restaurant overlooking Prague before wandering back to Petrin Park where we lay in the grass and enjoy some people watching.

Dinner consisted of classical Czech food and the rest of the night passes with us eating trdelnik and watching a street performer play interesting renditions of American classics (seriously, I didn’t think I’d enjoy an upbeat version of Chasing Cars in my lifetime but here we are).

Day 4: From Hills to Pedal Boats

Our last day in Prague consists of miscellaneous exploring. First off is Vysehrad Park. This park is located on a hill with great views of the city. Here we explore the graveyard (apparently a lot of famous people are buried here), St. Peter & Paul Church, and enjoy the new views of the city.

After a quick lunch, we walk along the river and come across a pedal boat shop. Oh yes, we went for it. For $6 we spend an hour pedaling along the river and it is a blast (note: pedaling in water is a lot slower than you’d think).

We spend our evening shopping, eating, and walking across the Charles Bridge one last time at sunset. Our night ends in Old Town Square with hot chocolate, trdelnik, and some fantastic people watching.

Our four days in Prague pass leisurely and it turns out to be one of the most refreshing vacations we’ve taken. How can people not adore such a beautiful city?